Here is a step-by-step review of how to sew a knife sheath. You can see pictures of the different steps as well as an explanation of how I do. Click the arrow to the right to go to the next step. Click on the image to see further description as well as larger images.

When I make a knife spoon for my knives, I always make a wood insert. I do this primarily because I want the vagina to be completely flat on the outside. You can decide for yourself whether you make a post or not - the procedure is the same.

I use a piece of wood for the post. Here a piece of maple of approx. 10 mm thick. I start by sawing a bow that corresponds to the front of the knife. Then it will lay very close to the shaft.

Then I draw the outline of the blade on the wooden block.

The outline of the blade is drawn on the block.

Now I can saw the post out on the decoupage saw.

The insert is sawn out and has the same shape as the blade.

I place the insert on top of the blade and can now, with a thin pencil, draw the rounding from the knife shaft onto the insert.

Then it is "just" to adapt the post to the lines. I do the rough grinding work on the rotary grinder.

The last adjustment I make with file and sandpaper. The insert must fit 100% to the blade and shaft.

In particular, the transition between the blade and the shaft must fit perfectly together. Otherwise you can see it when the vagina is sewn finished.

Now I wrap the whole knife in household film. I do this to protect both the shaft and the blade from moisture from the wet knife sheath. If the blade is not stainless, it is a good idea to give it a thin layer of oil. This prevents it from rusting.

It is important that the household film is completely tight around the knife and completely without folds - otherwise you can see the folds as unevenness on the finished sheath.

Now it's time to make the spoon for the knife sheath. This is one way to make the template ... There are other ways that I will probably describe at a later time. I fold a piece of A4 paper and mark where the tip is and how far I want it to go up the butt.

Now I fold the paper and lay the knife with my back down towards the fold. The tip of the knife should match the mark on the paper.

Now I can, with my nails, feel the outline on the paper. I press well with the nails - then you get a clear imprint around the knife.

When I unfold the paper I can clearly see the outline of the knife.

Now I can draw the template. At the tip at the bottom of the vagina I put approx. 1.5 cm in length. In the lower part of the vagina I put approx. 8 mm on each side. I do this so that there is plenty of room for the blade - so it does not cut into the leather. At the top I put approx. 5 mm more on each side to make room for sewing and hanging. At the top I make two "wings" - more on that later.

Then the template is ready and it can be cut out.

I draw the template up on the outside of the leather. I do this with a thin ink. one can also use a grease pen or the like. I use hard pressed front leather that is 2.2 - 2.4 mm thick.

Now I cut the vagina out of the leather. I use a good sharp leather scissors and hold it at an angle of approx. 30 degrees. I use Osborne scissors - it cuts super well ...

Here you can see the sloping edges that come after I cut with the scissors.

Then the whole vagina is cut out.

Now I mark where I want the stitching. I have made a small piece of tool out of a piece of reindeer antlers, but you can also use a bolt iron or a compass. The distance from the edge of the leather is approx. 2.0 mm. The smaller the distance, the narrower the seam you get in the end. But it should not be too small - then you risk that it goes wrong when you have to fill the holes.

In the bottom of the vagina I cut a "half" hole with the largest pipe in the pliers. it gives a good finish at the bottom of the vagina.