Here is a step-by-step review of how I design and draw the template up to my knives. You can see pictures of the different steps as well as an explanation of how I do. Click the arrow to the right to go to the next step. Click on the image to see further description as well as larger images.

I always start by drawing the blade up on a piece of paper. I draw all the way around the blade - also the angle. (the part to be glued into the shaft)

Then I draw a line to insert different goals. I start at the transition from knife blade to shaft. I call it 0. Then I can plot the length of the blade. Then I can insert the measurements on the shaft. The first measurement is 4.5 cm. This measure indicates the point on the knife that is highest and largest in circumference. It is placed before the middle of the shaft because it is later easier to make a knife sheath where the knife is stuck in. The upper edge of the sheath must go over this point. The next point is 9.5 cm. This point is measured on my hand. Grab a ruler with your hand tied. The target is from the outside of the index finger and to the outside of the little finger. The last measure is the total length of the butt. This is measured over the back of the hand plus 1 cm.

Now I can start drawing the shaft itself. The line that follows the underside of the blade is extended into the shaft. I draw the line abundantly long - I can always erase it again ...

The same is done for the upper part. The line from the blade is extended into the shaft. Because I design and make my own blades, I can easily get the lines I want. It can be difficult to make the same design with a blade where the edge and the back are more parallel.

The next goal I draw in is a horizontal line from the tip of the blade and backwards. This indicates where the end of the shaft should be placed. (Height above 12 cm) More about this later ...

Then I draw the end of the belly of the stock in. It is the point where the little finger ends and supports. I draw is small soft bow approx. 5 mm down and approx. 5 mm to the underside. It gives a nice curve ...

Then it is the top of the shaft that must be drawn ... From the widest point - at 4.5 cm - draw a soft arc down to the center line at the 12 cm. If the transition at the 4.5 cm becomes too marked, it can be corrected on the drawing or when the shaft is to be shaped. This line can be played with a bit ... it does not have to be a soft bow. It can also twist like an S or another shape - as long as the line before the 4.5 cm does not change, there is free play ...

Now I can draw the end of the shaft in, by connecting the two points at 9.5 cm and 12 cm. Here, too, there is free play with regard to the lines. I have chosen an arch with a diameter of Ø75 mm. It also fits with the diameter I will later use for any. posts in the butt. But the line could just as well be straight or twisted as an S.

In the same way I can now draw the front of the knife. I use the same diameter of Ø75 mm - it gives a good harmony throughout the design. Here there is also free play with the lines. It does not have to be curved, but can just as well be straight or S-shaped. It was the final shape of the butt.

I next always make some kind of insert or front plate in horn, bone, wood or mammoth tusk to give a little contrast in the butt. Here I also choose to use a curved post. It is the same Ø75 mm screw that has been used - again so that it all harmonizes

I can easily draw more posts if necessary. as a backhoe or something - also with the same diameter of Ø75 mm.

Download the guide here...